Coolant temp question
Coolant temp question
Sounds like a dumb question, but I've noticed in my 95 GSR, that at wide open throttle the coolant temps seems to go down.
Also, when it's cool outside, if I engine brake down a long hill, the coolant temp will also fall. Is this normal? Is there any cause for concern?
Also, when it's cool outside, if I engine brake down a long hill, the coolant temp will also fall. Is this normal? Is there any cause for concern?
Re: Coolant temp question
Change your thermostat. It is most likely sticking.
- coolhandluke
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Re: Coolant temp question
How are temperatures being measured?
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Re: Coolant temp question
I replaced the thermostat a few weeks ago, that was my thought, too.
Temperature is only being measured by the gauge on the dash.
Kinda like this... https://youtu.be/49XKVnCPcZk?t=129
However, mine tends to dip a bit further than is shown in the video.
Temperature is only being measured by the gauge on the dash.
Kinda like this... https://youtu.be/49XKVnCPcZk?t=129
However, mine tends to dip a bit further than is shown in the video.
Re: Coolant temp question
Did you get a good bleed on the coolant after changing the thermostat? I don't think B series motors have bleeding issues like the K series or D17, but using the bleeding funnel does make things a lot easier
-Andrew Wong
Re: Coolant temp question
ya'know..... now is the time to finally buy a coolant funnel. It's worth a shot.
I always assumed the coolant overflow would bleed the system passively, but I could be wrong.
I always assumed the coolant overflow would bleed the system passively, but I could be wrong.
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Re: Coolant temp question
Thank you for the visual, this helps me better understand.SlowNeal wrote: Sun Jan 09, 2022 4:50 pm I replaced the thermostat a few weeks ago, that was my thought, too.
Temperature is only being measured by the gauge on the dash.
Kinda like this... https://youtu.be/49XKVnCPcZk?t=129
However, mine tends to dip a bit further than is shown in the video.
Oh this information helps as well. The coolant overflow will not bleed the system. I recommend a coolant bleeder setup and letting the car idle until the radiator fan kicks on ~2-3x. Not, the top radiator hose gets hot, so one may want to wear gloves to avoid risk of burning. I typically will squeeze the top radiator hose after the thermostat opens up.SlowNeal wrote: Sun Jan 09, 2022 8:00 pm ya'know..... now is the time to finally buy a coolant funnel. It's worth a shot.
I always assumed the coolant overflow would bleed the system passively, but I could be wrong.
Researching Amazon, this seems to be a highly rated and affordable kit:
https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-87009-N ... 73&sr=8-15
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Re: Coolant temp question
Thanks for the info and advice, guys. Funnel is on the way, I'll report back with my findings.
FWIW, I also kinda think that the temp dropping on a downhill... could it just be that while engine braking, the engine really isn't producing much heat, and the heater core is doing an adequate job of over-cooling the system?
Also, in my head, at high RPM's the water pump is spinning fast enough to create enough flow to kinda push the thermostat open a bit.... for better or worse. lol you don't wanna be in my head
FWIW, I also kinda think that the temp dropping on a downhill... could it just be that while engine braking, the engine really isn't producing much heat, and the heater core is doing an adequate job of over-cooling the system?
Also, in my head, at high RPM's the water pump is spinning fast enough to create enough flow to kinda push the thermostat open a bit.... for better or worse. lol you don't wanna be in my head
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Re: Coolant temp question
Good topics, let's walk through these items:
-Heater core - This circulates heat from the block through the firewall to provide heat into the cabin. The temperature slider opens/closes via metal wire. The heater core's only function is to heat the cabin. When the coolant is low, that is why one's heat may not work well.
-Thermostat - Opens/closes bases off a mechanical temperature. That's why aftermarket thermostats open "sooner"- ie lower temperature threshold, or "later", via a higher temperature threshold. When closed, coolant is not circulating through the radiator, this is advantageous for (at least) two reasons. 1- enables the engine to come up to operating temperature, 2- Prevents external factors like cold weather/freeway driving/etc., from reducing the engine's temperature below operating range. The thermostat "opens" to allow coolant to flow to the radiator to reduce engine temperature in conjunction with the radiator fan. Honda thermostats fail closed, preventing the engine from overheating during failure, but possibly leading to scenarios like yours.
-Heater core - This circulates heat from the block through the firewall to provide heat into the cabin. The temperature slider opens/closes via metal wire. The heater core's only function is to heat the cabin. When the coolant is low, that is why one's heat may not work well.
-Thermostat - Opens/closes bases off a mechanical temperature. That's why aftermarket thermostats open "sooner"- ie lower temperature threshold, or "later", via a higher temperature threshold. When closed, coolant is not circulating through the radiator, this is advantageous for (at least) two reasons. 1- enables the engine to come up to operating temperature, 2- Prevents external factors like cold weather/freeway driving/etc., from reducing the engine's temperature below operating range. The thermostat "opens" to allow coolant to flow to the radiator to reduce engine temperature in conjunction with the radiator fan. Honda thermostats fail closed, preventing the engine from overheating during failure, but possibly leading to scenarios like yours.
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Re: Coolant temp question
I am aware how a heater core and a thermostat work....
Also, I've recently replaced the thermostat, kinda ruling that out as an issue.
So, on a cool day, with the heater up past halfway, and the fan speed set to "2"...... engine braking down a long hill. Say 70 mph for 30-45 seconds in 5th gear..... do you figure that the heater core (which is just a heat exchanger) could effectively cool the car in that scenario?
And while we're discussing thermostats, if they fail closed, the engine will overheat. If it fails open, the car will not heat up at all. And after thinking about it a bit more, (crazy person) in the scenario I dreamed up before, the water pump would actually be pulling suction on the thermostat, sucking it open, not pushing it open, am I right?
Also, I've recently replaced the thermostat, kinda ruling that out as an issue.
So, on a cool day, with the heater up past halfway, and the fan speed set to "2"...... engine braking down a long hill. Say 70 mph for 30-45 seconds in 5th gear..... do you figure that the heater core (which is just a heat exchanger) could effectively cool the car in that scenario?
And while we're discussing thermostats, if they fail closed, the engine will overheat. If it fails open, the car will not heat up at all. And after thinking about it a bit more, (crazy person) in the scenario I dreamed up before, the water pump would actually be pulling suction on the thermostat, sucking it open, not pushing it open, am I right?
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