Hatch Opener Relay

This forum contains various technical threads, how-tos, etc.
Post Reply
Bbb
Posts: 37
Joined: Sun Feb 04, 2018 10:35 pm
Location: Ontario
Badge Number: 01-1325

Hatch Opener Relay

Post by Bbb » Sun Jun 06, 2021 2:45 pm

I'm sure this has been discussed before but i can't find anything through the searches. I need to replace the hatch opener relay and wondering if anyone has any info on how to get one. Looks like they are discontinued. On one of the other forums there was a lot of discussion around getting ones of ebay etc but no descriptions.

The actuator works fine when connected directly to 12V so pretty sure it is fine. The volts drop to 1.5 V when i pull switch, so seems like there just isnt enough power getting to the motor. There was some discussion around the relay being the issue in this case so am going to try switching it if I can get one.

Thanks for any info...

User avatar
aw614
Posts: 569
Joined: Sun Aug 13, 2017 11:27 pm
Location: Tampa
Contact:

Re: Hatch Opener Relay

Post by aw614 » Sun Jun 06, 2021 7:16 pm

In for this, sounds like your issues with the hatch mirror mine, new hatch actuator, but issues opening it. Do you know where the relay is located and if there is any ID or part number listed that could possibly be cross referenced that could work?
-Andrew Wong

carpayments4life
Posts: 50
Joined: Tue Feb 20, 2018 7:38 pm

Re: Hatch Opener Relay

Post by carpayments4life » Sun Jun 06, 2021 9:40 pm

As I was removing the bad mechanism, I noticed the clip was unsnapped, from a rod. Snapped it on and never needed the new mechanism.

User avatar
Nick MC
Posts: 97
Joined: Mon Sep 04, 2017 9:03 am
Location: PA

Hatch Opener Relay

Post by Nick MC » Wed Jun 09, 2021 7:13 pm

Make sure you have good power and ground to the relay. I was having issues with my hatch after I had put everything together. The circuit is a little convoluted. My problem ended up being the latch itself. I went through 3 used ones before I bit the bullet and bought a new one from Acura.
IMG_2333.jpg
IMG_2333.jpg (2.81 MiB) Viewed 583 times
IMG_2333.jpg
IMG_2333.jpg (2.81 MiB) Viewed 583 times
Attachments
IMG_2621.png
IMG_2621.png (300.98 KiB) Viewed 583 times
01-1058: Sold
'00 EBP Civic Si: Sold
'09 Civic LX-S Wife wagon
'13 Silverado Tow Vehicle

shuttlepilot
Posts: 49
Joined: Tue Aug 22, 2017 11:11 pm

Re: Hatch Opener Relay

Post by shuttlepilot » Thu Jun 10, 2021 8:10 am

What was the symptom with the bad latches? Mine was not latching and I had to slam the trunk to even make it work. It ended up being a lube problem inside the latch. I had to take it apart to lube a certain section of it that was bone dry and making the latch hook hang open. It is a pretty simple latch but the lube was by far, definitely lacking in all of them from the tons of reports of latch problems.

User avatar
Nick MC
Posts: 97
Joined: Mon Sep 04, 2017 9:03 am
Location: PA

Re: Hatch Opener Relay

Post by Nick MC » Thu Jun 10, 2021 4:14 pm

Mine was electrical in nature. They all worked mechanically. In the wiring diagram you’ll see “hatch latch switch”. It tells the car weather the hatch is locked or not. There is no physical contact with any linkage. It’s simply a micro switch attached to a small servo in the latch itself. If you look at my pic of the latch it’s the small plastic white linkage below the plug. The relay will not be energized if this is open. If the servo motor is bad the only way to be sure is to physically move the switch by hand, turning the key won’t move it. You can also jump the terminals to verify it’s not the micro switch.
01-1058: Sold
'00 EBP Civic Si: Sold
'09 Civic LX-S Wife wagon
'13 Silverado Tow Vehicle

shuttlepilot
Posts: 49
Joined: Tue Aug 22, 2017 11:11 pm

Re: Hatch Opener Relay

Post by shuttlepilot » Thu Jun 10, 2021 10:05 pm

You can try a trick that worked a few times for me to clean micro switch contacts. Low current micro switches used as trip sensors go bad over time because corrosion forms over their contacts naturally and there is no way to get inside the switch to clean the contacts. However, if you hook something with a relatively large current draw like 4 - 5 amps (e.g a headlamp or RC car motor) through to the switch lines with 12 volts, if you can get it to conduct even once, the arc inside when it makes contact may blow the contact surfaces clean enough to get it working reliably again. It worked great for me and It could be worth a try on your old ones since parts are getting so scarce for these cars.

Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest