98-0148 (From Rice to Nice)

[JDMJNKY]

Thank you for keeping us updated. It's looking so good. I too was battling some issues with rotor/hub/spindle/braclet clearance. It's also a good note to keep an eye out for the rotor center bore. <-- My issue.

As for the rear calipers I've used that combo for years. I do not recall L being R or vice versa. All you have to do is swap the cable brackets and spring. To shortcut the bbk rear. All you really need in the RSX EP rear bracket. I didn't do it this way, but I know of a client who has.

[Vtecwreck]

Thank you for keeping us updated. It's looking so good. I too was battling some issues with rotor/hub/spindle/braclet clearance. It's also a good note to keep an eye out for the rotor center bore. <-- My issue.

As for the rear calipers I've used that combo for years. I do not recall L being R or vice versa. All you have to do is swap the cable brackets and spring. To shortcut the bbk rear. All you really need in the RSX EP rear bracket. I didn't do it this way, but I know of a client who has.

Man I wish it was that. I had my cousin try it out on his set up so that cleared out the possibilities of it being the rotor or caliper bracket. Seems to me as if there’s something wrong with the spindle. For now I have left it as is and I’ll come back to it when I have more time.

UPDATE:

Car is now in storage. My future comes first and it’ll just have to wait until I have some free time. I put every single one of the body panels on and loaded it up. It was a bit sad to see it “complete” but not in operating order. It was a weird feeling nonetheless. I also recently picked up another 32mm set up locally (lucky me huh?). In a weird turn of events this set up came with front camber kit, extended lower ball joints and rear camber kit. The spindle, trailing arm, and braking components are just in worse cosmetic shape than my set up. So that’s the next project.

Here are some pictures of the car with all the panels on.

[JDMJNKY]

From then to now, I applaud you. Great job. When you return, I'll be here; looking forward to you seeing this through.

[Vtecwreck]

Thanks Joel! I appreciate the support!

I’m back!

School is out of the way for now. With that out of the way, I have another 4 weeks to work on it until my time has to be diverted. I left off with the whole brake clearance issue. Instead of beating myself up and waste valuable time, I picked up another 5-lug set up. Once my car is back up and running I will look deeper into the clearance issues on my previous set up. As for now; I put the car on jack stands and began removing the suspension parts. At the same time I’m dismantling the new set up in order to refresh it. I think I have sorted most of my issues down and I’m on the right path to solve them.

I need the hardware for the valve cover but can’t find the oem parts anywhere. I’ve tried JHP, Tristate and eBay. All I’ve came across are after market parts that come in funky colors and sizes. I am simply looking for the oem hardware. Secondly, The rear calipers did not come with the E-brake bracket. This is another part I’ve searched for but haven’t been successful. I found the part on a diagram but according to oemacuraparts.com, it’s been discontinued. I have not been able to find any other info on this. If any of you can point me in the right direction I’d gladly appreciate it.

Also I’d like to know what your preferences are when it comes to brake hoses. I have original hoses but the ends are rusted and corroded. The only alternative I’ve found is stainless steel hoses. Are there any cons? I have not heard anything bad but I’d like to confirm this before making my final decision.

No pictures as of now due to the poor lighting inside the storage. Thanks in advance guys!

[aklackner]

Yeah I've I faced the same issue with the e-brake cable bracket. Only way I found to get it was to order the whole new OEM rear caliper.

I've been running stainless brake lines for a while, no issue here. I have heard that ITRs can have length issues with some general Integra applications so if you can try to find a set that specifically lists an ITR application not just Integra.

If you're refreshing a JDM 5 lug I recommend replacing the entire front hub vs just the bearings. Getting the inner race off is a b*tch and there's always a risk of damage (that you can't see) to the cast hub. If that fails on the road only your caliper is keeping the wheel on. For OEM replacement you can either order the CRX hub and go with ITR specific rotors, or what I did use the RSX-S rotors with Mugen (or Spoon) BBK so you can use an RSX-S rotors instead of Mugen (Spoon) specific rotors for the ITR.

[Stin1]

The car looks good. What hardware can't you find for the valve cover?

[Vtecwreck]

Yeah I've I faced the same issue with the e-brake cable bracket. Only way I found to get it was to order the whole new OEM rear caliper.

I've been running stainless brake lines for a while, no issue here. I have heard that ITRs can have length issues with some general Integra applications so if you can try to find a set that specifically lists an ITR application not just Integra.

If you're refreshing a JDM 5 lug I recommend replacing the entire front hub vs just the bearings. Getting the inner race off is a b*tch and there's always a risk of damage (that you can't see) to the cast hub. If that fails on the road only your caliper is keeping the wheel on. For OEM replacement you can either order the CRX hub and go with ITR specific rotors, or what I did use the RSX-S rotors with Mugen (or Spoon) BBK so you can use an RSX-S rotors instead of Mugen (Spoon) specific rotors for the ITR.

Yeah this is my next and only option if this fails. I did test fit everything before taking it apart for refreshing. Everything fit well and just needed some wire-wheel action with a fresh new coat.ill make sure to post that next! Thanks for the guidance as well.

The car looks good. What hardware can't you find for the valve cover?

Stin, turns out I was not looking hard enough. Found a diagram and I was able to source part number and make a long list of all the hardware I needed. Found an alternative OEM option I liked. I’ll post pictures of it soon.

UPDATE:

It’s been a while since the last time I posted. The break between fall-spring semesters are not as long as I thought they were. In between holidays and preparing for the upcoming semester I was unable to get any work done. However, I was able t pick some parts up. I was in need of the valve cover hardware and came across an ad on Craigslist that contained brand new OEM RDX valve cover hardware. Same style acorn nuts but they’re black. I think this will go well with my black header hardware. Along with that I got a CarbonFiber gurney flap from Rpmvtec? Not sure the exact username but it was from the HT days. And lastly a new dipstick. And for what I consider the best deal I’ve came about: I met an old itr owner through eBay. He had a NHBP 2001 ITR with only 65,000 miles. Long story short it got stolen in 2011 from NJ, NYC Police contacted him that they had it in their possession and that it was state property now. He was paid out and now owns an AP2. Well he was in the process of buying parts to clean it up a bit. Those parts consisted of OEM front and rear badges, a new cig lighter, jdm itr shift boot, front license plate block off, and a spare Stock wheel. He gave me an amazing deal and I couldn’t be happier. These were the last few parts I needed for the exterior. Little by little I go and try to tackle one small item in efforts to get the car on the road.

Here’s a picture:


You can also see an ignition harness in the pictures, I’ll explain the headache of that later on.

My intentions are to get the car rolling and then get it cleaned up before finishing the exterior. I have to apply the decals too.

[Vtecwreck]

I’ve gotten tired of having/seeing the car up on jack stands so I decided to slap on the messed up 5-lug and my newly acquired ctr/itr wheels and flip it around. Not much has changed since the last time I updated.





The main reason the car is not being driven is due to the 5-lug, back in October I picked up another 32mm set up. The issue with this set up was that it was in rough shape. It came with bwr rear camber kits, one function7 lower control arm and BC extended lower ball joints. So the price was not bad. Eventually I began to clean up the trailing arms and front spindles. With a wire wheel and Angle grinder I was able to get a decent amount done, (it shows more in the rear than the front). But eventually I came across spots that I just couldn’t get to. My plan was to strip them completely and coat them with the KBS Chassis Coating Kit. But do to time crunch and the desire to enjoy the car I’ve decided to go the powder coating method. I dropped them off on Monday and I’m expected to get them back this Friday. I also ordered a bunch of parts from Acura to refresh the hubs. Like all new studs and front splash/brake shields. I hope to update this more frequently as I’ll be driving the car soon!

Here’s the suspension once disassembled. The whole time I thought the trailing arms were the heaviest part, turns out the hub actually is.

[Vtecwreck]

I’ve been slacking on this thread but progress has still been made. I’ve been super busy buttoning up my car slowly. Its coming along, the car needs a million little things but that’s fine as long as the main things are figured out.

I drove the car once a few weeks back and I came across a couple issues with the car. First one being the cluster, the turn signals appeared to be working inversely, and my Rpm gauge would jump with the ticks for the turn signals, along with many other things. Turns out the film on the cluster was wrong so I used my spare cluster and replaced the film to the correct one. Besides this the covers for the O2 sensors came off the test pipe and then a week later the one off the header came off too, the car sounded like a helicopter and I couldn’t take it! I ordered the O2 sensors and installed them almost immediately. And lastly, my biggest issue, my brake lights didn’t work. Since my car was missing the pedals when I got it, I got used pedals from a gsr (with a 4-prong brake switch). Along with many other small items the PO, took the horn relay, (4-prong connector). Ignorant to the fact that the Type R uses a different plug and connector due to not having cruise control I connected the 4-prong plug with the brake switch. I tested both the switch and the connector for power and they both worked fine. Upon further investigation, the PO cut the plug off. I was able to find a plug and solder it in.

I drove the car to a meet and back putting roughly 180 miles on it. The following week I began buttoning the car up, installing the bumper-fender brackets, taillight gasket and aligning all the body panels (except doors). At the end of the week I began my trek to North Carolina. With the exception of my compressor starting to stick there were no issues. I was highly impressed how well the car did. The only mechanical downside to this car is the engine, it is slow. Even with intake, header and exhaust, my cousins s2000 was pulling off on me. I did have 3 other people in the car with me and a trunk full of luggage and some spare tires and other necessary road trip safety essentials. Needless to say, the GS-R engine and transmission will only be used for the rest of this summer.

Here are some pictures from the trip:







These 2 pictures were taken exactly 4 years apart.





Many more updates to come! Thanks for looking!

[coolhandluke]

Awesome! I'm happy to hear you are already enjoying the car. The project is never truly finished, but wrenching is half the fun. The other half is driving.