Type R Club of America

JDMJNKY wrote: ↑Mon Nov 20, 2023 4:45 pm Cool updates I dig it. Love the panasports on there.

Thanks. I am happy how the panasports look. My only issue is performance tire choice and size.


Quick update, I sourced a obd0 PR5 ecu, which is the correct ecu for this engine. Tough to find for a fair price. It's one of those times again where people think rare equals expensive. I see them on ebay for around 300 but they just sit and no one buys them. I found one on facebook for $50.....

Edit:

Got the ecu in the mail, I'll install soon. hope it works.

Installed some honed lower ball joints. I also went and adjusted the traction bars to add additional positive caster. I just evened out both sides and hopefully it's close to even when I get the car aligned. I just need to do the tie rods, boots, and tie rod ends. From there, I can get the car aligned and ready for a track day.







Lastly, I picked up an LX cable trans for a transmission build. I looked at the options, and an Lx trans with Mfactory 3-5 looked to be the best at balancing street and track. . We shall see. If I change my mind, the trans was only 120 bucks.

Some quick analysis on the gear combo I want to employ.

LX/DX cable transmission (oem 3.888 Final Drive) with Mfactory 3rd & 5th, oem 3rd as 4th. Assuming 7k redline with 205/55/14s



There's a margin for error given tire sizing printed on the tire doesn't exactly represent the tire(as we know). When looking at some aim data from Chuckwalla and LVMS, I should be right at the limit of fourth for my predicted top speeds with the custom transmission. We shall see.


I finished up some maintenance items on the longblock. Only a couple more things left before I throw it in the car. I installed the jdm pr5 in the civic just to see if its all good. The ecu seemed to work just fine. So that is good given the price was so cheap.

I messed around with the custom minimalist cluster over the weekend. I drilled three holes for the warning lights. The one light on the right seems ever so slightly higher. When I drilled it, the bit caught the ribs on the back from the 3d printing process which cause the bit to walk slightly. I think I have some wiggle room to oval the hole a bit and move the light level with the others. The other issue is the paint on the bezel grabs a mircofiber when I try to clean it. So I may repaint with something a little smoother. I am trying to finalize before the end of January. I ordered some motorsports level wiring supplies. My current materials and tools are dated. I am going to use solderless open barrel crimps and deutsch connectors for everything. Plus it is all good stuff to have in the garage for future projects.







I added some red paint for a redline mark for aesthetics. I saw some old vintage race cars do it that way.


Merry Christmas.

I've been lurking this thread since you started it. Time to give props where props due!

Love the aim you are going for and everything else about this simplified build where most of everyone seems to miss nowadays.

Thank you for documenting this. Such a breath of fresh air for us ol' dudes seeing this kind of stuff.

The engine on the stand looks like it's sitting in a museum somewhere. ngl

I've considered a stack tach but in 10k just to remind me of the old days.

If you ever decide to get rid of this one you have in 8k I might consider it.

Thanks appreciate it

neatrip wrote: ↑Thu Dec 28, 2023 4:12 pm Love the aim you are going for and everything else about this simplified build where most of everyone seems to miss nowadays.

Don't get me started. With YouTube and social media, most of today's builds have turned into an extension of consumerism and trying to please an audience that has never turned a wrench. I could go on......

You are a mad man, I love it. I can't wait to visit and see this in person.

I assume the Aim Solo is your speedometer now?

coolhandluke wrote: ↑Fri Dec 29, 2023 9:50 am You are a mad man, I love it. I can't wait to visit and see this in person.

I assume the Aim Solo is your speedometer now?

Don't visit too soon! I think the car will be somewhat finished by Feb. 2024. I won't have the ZC with custom trans in till after Feb. 2024.

haha, that is a good idea. So I don't really plan to have a speedo, but I am going to set the stack shift light for a rpm that is equivalent to 70mph in 5th gear. I'll probably put that light somewhere that isn't immediately noticeable, like a dash vent. So the idea is the light comes on when I am going 70mph or faster. I'll probably put it on a switch too, so I can just turn it on when I am cruising to track days.

As for using the aim, I had another idea on a data system that I will post tonight. Here's a hint: it's period correct. hahah

Found this for 100 bucks. I just need the laptimer display... which is kinda pricey but I'm for it.






I am 90% finished with the cluster wiring. I need to make a bracket for the tach buttons, as I am keeping them behind the dash. They are pretty much used for setting the cylinder count and shift light RPM. Next step is the chassis wiring side. That should be simple. I order two Raychem boots that work with the 8 pin deutsch plugs. I can add those later as depinning these connectors is a breeze.

Slick, that looks solid. Smart move on the wiring diagram there too. That could come in handy in a year or five.